There are endless variations of deviled eggs.

They are served on beds of waxed paper in cloudy Tupperware containers. Pieces of tape affixed to the bottom announce the names of the owners. They are served on sparkling antique crystal plates handed down through generations. Stoneware and china cradle them, too.

There are as many ways to serve deviled eggs as there are ways to create them. They are symbols of both survival and celebration. They can be piping-bag fancy or spoon-plopped simple. The yolks can be carefully creamed through a food mill or quickly mashed with a fork.

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Fred Sauceman is the author of “The Proffitts of Ridgewood: An Appalachian Family’s Life in Barbecue.”

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